Hi,
I'm expecting delivery of my 56kw, 3 year old ID.3 to arrive Tuesday. I have a few questions to ask.
1) The one previous owner did not get the car serviced, there is no service book, which I find strange . It's done 22,000 miles and I have asked the dealership to speak with VW to see if the battery warranty is still valid?
2) Home charges. Are there still government grant's? I intend changing my energy supply to octopus energy as this seems to give the best deals for overnight charging.
3) Are all home charges the same, as far as outtage of goes? Recommendations ?
Any other advice is appreciated
M
Home chargers
There is no service book for any ID car, it's all electronic, hopefully there will be a record on the VW system. The service interval is a fixed 2 years regardless of mileage. You'd better check the battery warranty T&Cs.
There are no grants for chargers any more if you have your own house with off road parking. There are still some grants available if you rent or have a flat.
https://www.find-government-grants.serv ... t-owners-1
I have an Ohme Home Pro which is fine and has the plus of Octopus Intelligent integration if you want that. A lot of people like Zappi who I understand are the best for solar integration. Other options exist. You want a 32A charge point, most will be.
There are no grants for chargers any more if you have your own house with off road parking. There are still some grants available if you rent or have a flat.
https://www.find-government-grants.serv ... t-owners-1
I have an Ohme Home Pro which is fine and has the plus of Octopus Intelligent integration if you want that. A lot of people like Zappi who I understand are the best for solar integration. Other options exist. You want a 32A charge point, most will be.
ID.3 Family Pro Performance (Jan 22), Makena Turquoise / East Derry alloys. Ohme Home Pro charger.
Re point 3 we have an Ohme epod - if you want/need a charger without a tethered cable then this charger is very small and discrete and works just fine with Octopus. If you have a standard single phase electricity supply my understanding is the chargers are limited to 7kw/h and all seem to be the same. Be warned that depending where you are in the country there is a real shortage of qualified installers and the wait time for an installation is many weeks. If you haven't got a smart meter then get one of these fitted asap as you will need for a smart tariff.
The Octopus Intelligent Go tariff is as cheap as chips and so far has worked fine for me. If you aren't an existing customer then pick up a £50 transfer referal bonus (lots of folk on the forum have links - here's mine https://share.octopus.energy/oak-rill-959). Also I'd recommend getting an Electroverse charging car (again get a credit here https://electroverse.octopus.energy/sig ... hell-14280).
Good luck and enjoy your id3!
The Octopus Intelligent Go tariff is as cheap as chips and so far has worked fine for me. If you aren't an existing customer then pick up a £50 transfer referal bonus (lots of folk on the forum have links - here's mine https://share.octopus.energy/oak-rill-959). Also I'd recommend getting an Electroverse charging car (again get a credit here https://electroverse.octopus.energy/sig ... hell-14280).
Good luck and enjoy your id3!
Personally I would make sure whoever you get to fit the charger has experience with them. Whilst I'm not an electrician the wiring itself seems pretty straightforward I understand there is the need to pre clear installation with the local DNO (to ensure mains fuse/supply is sufficient) and then to "pair" the charger with the suppliers back end servers to facilitate smart charging etc. In the end I chose Octopus to supply and fit https://octopus.energy/get-an-ev-charger/ as much as anything to avoid any bother between installer/charger/electricity supplier/DNO.
You need an electrician with the right qualifications to install charge points, there are specific standards that they must be installed to. There are lots around now but it's far from every electrician.
32A = 32 amps, the maximum current rating. It equates to about 7.5kw at normal house voltage. It's the most the ID3 can take on a single phase supply. This is largely standard for dedicated home charging points now, but occasionally you might see one that is limited to 16 amps, you don't want that.
ID.3 Family Pro Performance (Jan 22), Makena Turquoise / East Derry alloys. Ohme Home Pro charger.
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ForburyLion
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Before picking a charger, check with octopus to see if it’s compatible with their Octopus intelligent Tarrif.
I had an Ohme epod installed on Monday, came free with the car lease scheme I signed up to. However my house is old so I had to get my energy provider to install a 2 pole isolation switch (big on/off switch) before the charger company would install the charger. That cost me £99.97. Then because my electrics are in the house and not outside it was an enhanced installation with loads of cabling, trucking and holes drilled so that cost me £250. The guy spent 8 hours installing it.
I had an Ohme epod installed on Monday, came free with the car lease scheme I signed up to. However my house is old so I had to get my energy provider to install a 2 pole isolation switch (big on/off switch) before the charger company would install the charger. That cost me £99.97. Then because my electrics are in the house and not outside it was an enhanced installation with loads of cabling, trucking and holes drilled so that cost me £250. The guy spent 8 hours installing it.
I like my Zappi, which is complicated, sizeable, and works with my regrettably few solar panels and the rest of the house. I chose one with a cable tethered, as part of it, since I don't mind having it hanging in a coil outside and don't want to keep dragging a cable out of the boot of the car and plugging both ends in. Stop, grab, plug is the routine.
A remark above did make me think about the merit of having a small flushish socket and using the car's cable.
Depending on your duty cycle - how long there is between uses of the car, how much you charge at work or wherever - you may just need a 13A socket within reach of the charge lead. And the charge lead with a box in it that sorts out a slow 1.5 kW charge from that. Many of us I think have one of those, which we carry when there might be need and opportunity to charge the car from a domestic socket rather than something quicker. "Granny charger".
If you were having a socket put in, then rather than having a 13A spur and socket put in, you might choose to have a 32A fitting, a "Commando plug" which looks grown-up, and while it needs a more serious charging lead, also gives a faster charge. The car and the box in the lead do all the controlling.
Those two are obviously utterly standard electrical stuff and can be fitted by an utterly standard electrician. basically anyone you'd trust to put a waterproof socket in the garden for the mower and chipper and so on. And the latter could, I suppose, have the socket on the end replaced by a charger box or anything else you care to have fitted later on. Ask the electrician to leave a few inches spare. They may.
You want, as standard, a circuit breaker and a residual current leakage detector device, so if the thing gets shorted, or if it leaks to Earth, it will politely shut itself off. A small complication here is that because there is DC equipment around, possibly you should have a Type B earth leakage circuit breaker, which avoids being paralysed by DC leakage. It may take a couple of weeks for that to be delivered from Spain or China - we can't simply order them from Spain any more because we were very stupid. (Of course, simple sockets don't have that cleverness mandated in wiring reegulations, since they are just sockets.)
Beyond that, the proper solution is a proper wall charger box. I suspect they are much of a muchness, and there are Rules, so whatever hits your point of cleverness and aesthetic and cost should do.
Before you fit any of this, take a tape measure and work out where all the places the right quarter of the car and the charger could be, and that tells you how long a lead you need or where the box has to be for the lead you have.
Hope this helps.
A remark above did make me think about the merit of having a small flushish socket and using the car's cable.
Depending on your duty cycle - how long there is between uses of the car, how much you charge at work or wherever - you may just need a 13A socket within reach of the charge lead. And the charge lead with a box in it that sorts out a slow 1.5 kW charge from that. Many of us I think have one of those, which we carry when there might be need and opportunity to charge the car from a domestic socket rather than something quicker. "Granny charger".
If you were having a socket put in, then rather than having a 13A spur and socket put in, you might choose to have a 32A fitting, a "Commando plug" which looks grown-up, and while it needs a more serious charging lead, also gives a faster charge. The car and the box in the lead do all the controlling.
Those two are obviously utterly standard electrical stuff and can be fitted by an utterly standard electrician. basically anyone you'd trust to put a waterproof socket in the garden for the mower and chipper and so on. And the latter could, I suppose, have the socket on the end replaced by a charger box or anything else you care to have fitted later on. Ask the electrician to leave a few inches spare. They may.
You want, as standard, a circuit breaker and a residual current leakage detector device, so if the thing gets shorted, or if it leaks to Earth, it will politely shut itself off. A small complication here is that because there is DC equipment around, possibly you should have a Type B earth leakage circuit breaker, which avoids being paralysed by DC leakage. It may take a couple of weeks for that to be delivered from Spain or China - we can't simply order them from Spain any more because we were very stupid. (Of course, simple sockets don't have that cleverness mandated in wiring reegulations, since they are just sockets.)
Beyond that, the proper solution is a proper wall charger box. I suspect they are much of a muchness, and there are Rules, so whatever hits your point of cleverness and aesthetic and cost should do.
Before you fit any of this, take a tape measure and work out where all the places the right quarter of the car and the charger could be, and that tells you how long a lead you need or where the box has to be for the lead you have.
Hope this helps.
Personally I would aim to have the charger fitted centrally rather than aimed to the right quarter that way if you change car in the future and the charge point is on the left side, you can still accommodate it. We have that issue with our ID3 being on the right and the Mokka e being on the left.Midgex wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2024 2:22 pm I like my Zappi, which is complicated, sizeable, and works with my regrettably few solar panels and the rest of the house. I chose one with a cable tethered, as part of it, since I don't mind having it hanging in a coil outside and don't want to keep dragging a cable out of the boot of the car and plugging both ends in. Stop, grab, plug is the routine.
A remark above did make me think about the merit of having a small flushish socket and using the car's cable.
Depending on your duty cycle - how long there is between uses of the car, how much you charge at work or wherever - you may just need a 13A socket within reach of the charge lead. And the charge lead with a box in it that sorts out a slow 1.5 kW charge from that. Many of us I think have one of those, which we carry when there might be need and opportunity to charge the car from a domestic socket rather than something quicker. "Granny charger".
If you were having a socket put in, then rather than having a 13A spur and socket put in, you might choose to have a 32A fitting, a "Commando plug" which looks grown-up, and while it needs a more serious charging lead, also gives a faster charge. The car and the box in the lead do all the controlling.
Those two are obviously utterly standard electrical stuff and can be fitted by an utterly standard electrician. basically anyone you'd trust to put a waterproof socket in the garden for the mower and chipper and so on. And the latter could, I suppose, have the socket on the end replaced by a charger box or anything else you care to have fitted later on. Ask the electrician to leave a few inches spare. They may.
You want, as standard, a circuit breaker and a residual current leakage detector device, so if the thing gets shorted, or if it leaks to Earth, it will politely shut itself off. A small complication here is that because there is DC equipment around, possibly you should have a Type B earth leakage circuit breaker, which avoids being paralysed by DC leakage. It may take a couple of weeks for that to be delivered from Spain or China - we can't simply order them from Spain any more because we were very stupid. (Of course, simple sockets don't have that cleverness mandated in wiring reegulations, since they are just sockets.)
Beyond that, the proper solution is a proper wall charger box. I suspect they are much of a muchness, and there are Rules, so whatever hits your point of cleverness and aesthetic and cost should do.
Before you fit any of this, take a tape measure and work out where all the places the right quarter of the car and the charger could be, and that tells you how long a lead you need or where the box has to be for the lead you have.
Hope this helps.
Family Pro-Performance, Manganese Grey, East Derry alloys.
Commission 314710**
Ordered 16/09/2021
Collected 19/10/2022
Commission 314710**
Ordered 16/09/2021
Collected 19/10/2022
the.kes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 3:56 pmPersonally I would aim to have the charger fitted centrally rather than aimed to the right quarter that way if you change car in the future and the charge point is on the left side, you can still accommodate it. We have that issue with our ID3 being on the right and the Mokka e being on the left.
Perhaps we could agree that while checking all the places the cable must reach the _present car_;s charging point, which seems a reasonable priority to me, one should also consider the other places a future car might have its charging point - front centre; right quarter and perhaps others.
